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News > 2015 > An article by Adam Ondra on his 2014 season


Adam celebrating his 100th 9a or harder route
Adam celebrating his 100th 9a or harder route
Adam celebrating his 100th 9a or harder route
Chromosom Y flash ascent

2014 was a crazy year, one would think it was boring to put all effort training for competitions. But I contacted my amigo Patxi Usobiaga and with his guidance I trained harder and more efficient than ever before. My only goal was being World Champion in lead. I would have never said it before the event, but it was extremely important for me. Anything else than victory would have been devastating and built up a lot of pressure. This is why I am so happy, I  managed to handle the pressure and got even more than one title with my unexpectedly victory in bouldering!
 
However, start of autumn was a bit disappointing again after two big successes. It wasn't about taking it too easy. I was still focused, but some bad luck and bad mindset resulted in some mistakes in the semifinals. But winning the last two events in Japan and Kranj, where I managed to win by a margin of a couple of holds, was great. In the end of the world cup season I ended up 3rd place in overall ranking in lead World cup.

Disappointing was my total lack of time. Eventhough the comp season was over, a challenging university semester kept me away from climbing outdoors despite my good shape. I still managed to spend one day in Misja pec, where I quickly managed to repeat classic Za staro kolo 8c+ (it might sound easy, but it is bloody hard route). Then I spent one day in Poland, in order to complete my 100th 9a and harder route and finally one perfect day in mid December in Charmey, in Switzerland. I was invited in Laussane by my sponsor Entre Prises for the grand opening of an amazing new gym called Rocspot. It was a very fun event, I was challenged by Cedric Lachat on a good route a setted up and on a route specially setted by the Entre-Prises crew for us in the front of a huge crowd.

The next day I went to Charmey with Primin Bertle, a strong german climber living currently in Fribourg, short drive from the crag. It was the last day of climbing in 2014, and it just couldn't be any better! Peefect friction, sun and I felt strong! With a perfect beta, I could flash Chromosome Y 9a and make first ascent of another cool 9a. The end of the season just couln't be better.

For the rest of December I took a rest for three weeks, eating a lot and enjoy the tranquility after long hectic season. I really needed it. So we went skiing for the New Year eve, it wasn't that bad in the end to survive 4 weeks without climbing. Now I am climbing again, and training hard. Even though I had planned to make competitions only for one year, and even though I suceeded in accomplishing my goal, I am keen to continue competing for one more year. I suprised myself by this inner motivation and hunger for comps that I find myself in, and I don't want to fight it. No matter how much I love rock climbing, I just can't wait to go for the next competitions. But of corurse, off and on I will climb outdoors too, as source of motivation.  I will do another season of hardcore Patxitraining and hopefully this is gonna make me a better and stronger climber for all the other climbing dreams that I have in my mind. Climbing is a beautiful game and I feel I am just loving it more and more.



2015-01-20